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Chirally Correct Cosmetic Formulations

    " I was mentored by Mike Bollman, Bollman Molecular, 'way back in the early 1990's and still have all the  information he began sending me on Chirally Correct technology back then.  He changed the way I looked at my esthetics practice and responsibilities to the public and to the environment!  Years later, his research remains cutting edge and every day I teach someone new the beauty of Chiral, including dermatologists and natural medicine doctors.   If you have sensitive skin, chronic symptoms of medical disorders that exhibit on your skin, if you are trying to be Eco Responsible in your lifestyle, read on.  Then go to our Covalence products page.  A portion of our profits go to worthwhile non-profit causes that we have supported for many years. 

 Remember to recycle your clean, empty cosmetic containers!"

Joy-Marie Peterson

Portland Oregon

Chiral Technology History
   The importance of Chirality was first recognized in the laboratory of the famous chemist Louis Pasteur in 1848. The word "Chirality" is derived from the Greek word chir, which means "hand". It refers to a mirror image phenomenon frequently found in nature, e.g., human hands, eyes and feet are identical opposites, or mirror images, of each other.

What is this Chiral Technology?
   The human body is selective about which "part" of a given compound it can put to use and which is useless, or even harmful. Simply put, only the right shape works. Now imagine squinting through the lens of a high-power microscope at the two halves of a molecule. With the use of Chiral Technology, a molecule can be separated; one half is able to form a perfect bond with the skin's cells (or cell receptors), while leaving the other, ineffective half, behind. Using only the effective side of the molecule guarantees that each ingredient will have the greatest targeted benefits possible, and dramatically cuts down the potential for any adverse reactions. The human body recognizes natural, but does not recognize artificial chemicals.

Some examples of why this Chiral Technology  is so important:
   Thalidomide: the notorious drug that caused heartbreaking birth defects in the early 60's. It was prescribed for morning sickness to pregnant women. When scientists finally resolved the drug in 1979, separating its two "hands", they discovered that only the L form causes fetal deformities, while the D form and the racemic DL form both exhibited equal sedative activity. The drug had always been prescribed in its racemic form, which contained the L molecule responsible for birth defects. If they had chirally purified the drug, by removing the L form, Thalidomide may have been safe. Although recent studies indicate that this concept may not have been the final answer to the Thalidomide problem, (some believe it would not have made a difference) it is clear that a better understanding of Chiral Technology would have been significant. The bottom line? Important biological compounds exist in 2 mirror image forms and the actions and effects of the twins can be strikingly different when in the presence of other compounds which are themselves Chiral, like the human body. This applies equally to compounds intended for internal use and to topicals like skin care. If a product does not take the Chirality of its active ingredients into consideration it cannot be effective on a highly evolved, complex biochemical organ like human skin, of which its very structure is Chiral.

   To be truly effective, products must be Chirally Correct. Just as you cannot put your right hand into a left handed glove, your body will not accept a left handed compound to do the job a right handed one is supposed to do, and visa versa. Chiral chemistry sets the rules that determine how or whether ingredients perform as desired or otherwise. While molecules of one hand are necessary to life (e.g. L-amino acids, certain D sugars, etc.) this selectivity means that the molecule of the opposite hand will usually exhibit different effects, ranging from useless to toxic, as in the case of L-Thalidomide. 

   Chiral Technology forms the basis of our High Performance Skin Care treatments.   Using only the effective side of the molecule guarantees that each ingredient has the greatest targeted benefits possible. The result? Your skin will look healthy, soft, and feeling fresher than you've ever experienced before. Rarely will a client report sensitivities or allergic responses to these products.

Limonene (D and L difference):
Limonene is an active compound in citrus fruits. In nature, Limonene always has both left handed (L) and right handed (D) molecules. Natural Limonene is DL Limonene. Let's compare the different properties & uses of these naturally occurring "twin-sided" molecules: D-Limonene (right-handed) is the version used for industrial cleaners & degreasers. It's used as a tire solvent (for recycling tires), it's known to cause allergic reactions, and it promotes mutations in human embryos & promotes free radicals. L-Limonene (left-handed) suppresses tumor growth (particularly melanoma) & fights free radicals. Would you prefer to have in your skin care - the natural Limonene with both the harsh D side molecule and therapeutic L molecule, or only the therapeutic L side? Those concerned about their skin would prefer only the L-Limonene in their products. Chiral technology makes it possible to give you a product that is better than natural because it separates the molecules allowing us to remove the undesirable side of the molecule and use only the desirable one.

Indications: "L"-"left" molecule, "D" - "right" molecule

L - Alpha Lecithin
   antioxidant, emollient, & antibacterial

L - Arbutin  
melanin inhibitor reduces spots, melasma, & hyperpigmentation

L - Ascorbic Acid
   photo protective, collagen stimulating, & antioxidant

L - Lactic Acid
   speeds skin's metabolism, softens, exfoliates, & strengthens cell walls

L - Retinol A
   patented, uses benefits of retinoic acid
(reduction of fine lines and acne) to penetrate without
irritation

D - Alpha Tocopherol
   antioxidant, heals & repairs damaged tissues

D - Beta Fructan
   found in plants, helps skin to self-moisturize

D - Beta Glucosamine
   bolsters the skin's ability to moisturize, strengthen,
& defend itself

EGF Epidermal Growth Factor
   stimulates new cell growth & repairs UV-damaged skin

D-20 Heavy Water  
  reduces cellular stress, protects against bacteria,
viruses, & radiation

Spin Trap
   uses free radicals to feed cellular growth,
to attain more youthful and healthy skin

Why is Chirally Correct better than natural?
   To put it simply, chemicals cause stress simply because they are not natural to our skin or body. Chemicals are often not recognized or utilized properly by the skin or the body. An example would be Lactic acid. Synthetic Lactic acid contains both the D and the L molecule. The body (and skin) only recognizes the L form. Natural Lactic acid contains only the L form, which is the one the body can use. It's obviously better to use the natural L form - why would you use the form in which one half of the molecules are ineffective? It is the same with vitamin E. Natural vitamin E is D-alpha Tocopherol. Synthetic vitamin E is DL alpha Tocopherol. The body can only use the D form. With the DL form you have half the molecules that are either worthless or can cause an allergic reaction. Artificial color and artificial fragrances (or flavors in food) are often not recognized by the body. This causes stress to our systems because the body doesn't know how to react to these ingredients and often stores them in an organ or fat. Over years these chemicals can accumulate and reach a toxic level. In short, they pollute our bodies and/or our skin.

How to identify Chiral Ingredients on the labels:
When a product is Chirally Correct , it means that it contains only the molecules with the ability to give the desired results (by the way, always identified on the product label by either an L, for the left side of the molecule or D, for the right side, before each of the ingredients). Take a look at the ingredient list of any of the products you are currently using and see if they contain any Chirally Correct ingredients.

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Spin Trap: (a.k.a. PBN, Phenyl Butyl Nitrone) is the intelligent anti-oxidant! It is a form of nitrogen and is far more effective than ordinary anti-oxidants in dealing with damaging free radical molecules. When oxygen is metabolized or burned by the body, your cells create by-products called "free radicals". These highly toxic "rogue" free radicals travel through the cell's structure resulting in cellular damage and they can also harm DNA. Rogue free radicals have been implicated in a wide range of afflictions from heart disease to many types of cancer, and are a major cause of premature aging - we don't want these molecules running rampant in our bodies - now do we? What we're saying is - rogue free radicals are bad.  Anti-oxidants are good, but Spin Trap is better! Spin Trap converts the rogue free radicals back into vital oxygen and redirects them for the deepest tissue respiration, which is necessary for all healthy cells.

   The products at this link are marked if Spin Trap ingredients are contained.

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Fullersomes ™:  an important complex of skin nutrients. It contains the pure carbon cage molecules known as Fullerenes....Fullerenes are natural carbons. They exist as spherical cages that are up to 10 millions times smaller than the now familiar liposomes or nanosomes. Acting as carriers by bonding with ingredients, Fullerenes deliver elements deep where they are the most needed. Fullerenes are also the only form of natural carbon that the body can utilize (almost 20% of the total weight of the human body is carbon). The scientists who first discovered Fullerenes in 1985 were awarded the 1996 Nobel Prize for Chemistry. Although new to us, Fullerenes have been found to exist in interstellar dust as well as in many geological formations on Earth (quite an amazing discovery, indeed!).

For years, it was believed that pure carbon existed in nature in only two forms, graphite and diamonds. But in 1985, it was discovered that it exists naturally in another pure form: Fullerenes. Named after the great architect Buckminster Fuller, this closed hollow cage of 60 or more carbon atoms resembles the geodesic domes popularized by his work. Those not familiar with his work can get an idea of the shape of a Fullerene molecule by viewing a soccer ball. Fullerenes are found in volcanic material, ancient shungite mineral deposits in Russia, and meteorites.

Until 1985, it was believed that the body could not process any pure form of carbon---i.e.. graphite or diamond. But, with the discovery of Fullerenes, we now have carbon that is as biologically active as it is pure! This is important for revitalizing the predominantly carbon-based structure of the body. Being the pure carbon on which is based the spherical geometry of the body's cells, Fullerenes provide a stable, reliable template for cellular "theology", i.e. shape. Just as improperly shaped blood cells will no longer efficiently carry oxygen, improperly shaped cells of any kind in the body (skin, epithelial, brain, etc.) will fail to connect with one another tightly enough to convey the functionality of a particular organ. Fullerenes are the very best carrier systems of active ingredients on the skin care market, today. 

Liquid Crystals - Derived from plants, Liquid Crystals provide the skin with the nourishment it craves. Every component of our body, from DNA to cell membranes to muscles, exists in the Liquid Crystal state. As we age, our organs, (our skin being the largest) begin to lose their Liquid Crystal integrity. Without this Liquid Crystal integrity, our body's Chiral building blocks are no longer interlocking pieces, like gears. Much like a broken watch, the body begins to age, or 'lose time'. Liquid Crystals can be used topically to directly nourish the epidermal and dermal cell surfaces, replenishing the gears, thus slowing the clock. To read about the Spin Trap Liquid Crystal Eye and Lip Serum, click here.

Heavy Water/ D20: Heavy Water is 10% heavier than H2O and is known as D2O (Deuterium Oxide). Not only will it hydrate and plump your cells, but it fights certain acne bacteria as well. It evaporates more slowly than regular water and provides necessary hydration and natural moisture to the skin. Heavy water is believed to be the original water and is found in all water on the planet. The Deuterium Oxide molecule (again with the molecules!) provides the "nucleus" or center around which all water is structured. D2O is found at the level of about 1 in 20 million water molecules. Heavy Water is not manufactured, but is extracted from ordinary water in an expensive, 60 story tower, separation process. Bottom line: D20 reduces free radical stress, inactivates certain acne bacteria, resistant to evaporation (stays in the skin longer), higher plumping factor than regular water. Protects and preserves skin tissue.  Order D2O...


Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): Derived from yeast.
   As our skin ages, the communication between the various layers of skin is hindered because of a critical decrease in the number of growth-factor receptors. Therefore, EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) is the single most important substance for development and maintenance of both the epidermis and dermis. It is a protein that works to heal and repair the stratum corneum, by directly stimulating proliferation of growth-factor receptors.  EGF Serum  has been specifically formulated to help repair and heal damaged skin, caused by the constant use of AHA products or other skin stressors. We have also found that our EGF products work well at softening scar tissue.   Order EGF products...


Vitamin C (chirally correct L-Ascorbic Acid): C Major Serum is super fortified with a 10% Phyto-Alexin-C Compound from grape seed. This compound is composed of advanced L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Resveratrol, and Polydatin, which are grape Phytoalexins found in red wine. Phytoalexins help spare the skin from oxidative stress and increases collagen production. This compound restores tone, vitality and vigor to dull, lifeless skin and is highly anti-aging.  To order C-Major Serum, click here.  To order Peach Wine Cream with Resveratrol, click.

Zeolites: Crystalline hydrated silicates from volcanoes. These molecular cages trap and remove heavy metal pollutants and capture biological debris allowing it to be washed away. They look like a caged ball, (think microscopic cat ball toy with a bell in it), and are from mines in eastern Russia. They draw impurities from your pores and when full, break apart and dissipate when washed away. To see products with Zeolites, click.

Glycolic acid vs. Poly Glycolic Polymer:
   You may be aware of the controversy surrounding glycolic acid and that for some time the FDA has been assessing the use of glycolic acid. Our formulations contain a polyglycolic acid or Glycolymer. This form of glycolic is much more aligned with the skin's properties. The polymeric structure allows it to enter only into the body's own polymers (skin or gastric mucosa) where its activity is gradually released by the slow breaking down of the polymer. This is like a "timed release" capsule because the skin can slowly digest the polymer - slowing down the release of the acidity while maximizing the advantages (such as exfoliation) of the acid. Some companies choose to buffer glycolic or other acids which negate its effectiveness. They do this to avoid irritation, but it completely inactivates the key ingredient. Using Glycolymer helps eliminate the negative side effects without needing to use a buffering chemical. To order Polygel, click.

SPF issue:
   No OMC: Now there is evidence that a substance called octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), used as a UVB filter in 90% of sunscreens worldwide, may itself be toxic. Covalence and Glymed brands which we carry here, never formulate with OMC. We prefer physical sunscreens and blocks such as micronized titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide, which deflect the damaging rays as opposed to chemical blocks, like OMC, which absorb the rays. 


Hyaluronic acid:
   The Chiral form: L-Sodium Hyaluronate- chirally correct pure Hyaluronic acid, is intensely hydrating and plumps the skin with moisture. It assists the skin in maintaining proper moisture levels. It re-hydrates, as well as re-energizes cellular renewal and helps protect against free radical damage. Hyaluronic Acid provides superior moisturizing capability by absorbing more water than most moisturizing agents. Its unmatched hydrating properties result in increased smoothness, softening and decrease in wrinkles, and stimulates the skin's natural regeneration process to significantly improve its appearance. 

Aminoguanadine:
Reported in the January/February issue of Medical Spa Magazine and listed in the TOP TEN Advancements in Anti-Aging Medicine 2002: "Anti-AGEs" for Anti-aging: New research suggests that blood pressure drugs called ACE inhibitors, which help diabetics to lower their risk of developing complications, could be used to develop drugs that delay the effects of aging. Part of the reason why diabetics tend to age faster than non-diabetics is that their high-blood sugar levels encourages the body to produce complex proteins called advanced glycation end products (AGEs). These proteins interfere with cell functioning, accumulate in skin making it look wrinkly, and stiffen blood vessels. Now researchers at the Baker Institute in Melbourne, Australia have found that ACE inhibitors appear to exert their anti-aging effects by preventing the build-up of AGEs. Aminoguanadine prevents the buildup of advanced glycation end products. It works by helping to prevent the advanced glycation end-products from attaching to the collagen fibrils in the skin. By preventing the AGEs from collecting on collagen fibrils, Aminoguanadine helps in keeping the skin soft and supple. Our Lucent brand features Aminoguanadine, as well as the Clear & Bright Serum and The Clarate group of acne care products.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-3:
(10%) of Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline®), a synthesized peptide that displays excellent anti-wrinkle results by relaxing skin tissue when wrinkles form. Simply put, it works in much the same way as the "infamous" injection, (and without all the potential side effects), by safely blocking the transmitter from the muscle to the skin, keeping the skin relaxed and smooth. Testing has shown that it reduces the severity of wrinkles around the eyes, up to 17% faster after 15 days of treatment and up to 27% after 30 days of treatment.  See Tensor2 Serum...

Back to High Performance Skin Care and our Chirally Correct selections

Onto the article on Spin Trap

What does "Photo Aging, Photo Damage, Photo Protection" mean?